The magic fabric of Kota Doria is made up of cotton and silk yarn in different combinations in warp and weft, which are woven in such a fashion that they produce square check patterns in the fabric. These checks are popularly known as “KHAT” and these are made so skillfully that the fabric becomes transparent, which is a unique characteristic of this wonder hand woven fabric.
The recognizing characteristic of Kota Doria is the square-check pattern, locally known as the ‘khat’ that is present in the base fabric besides any other type of value addition by weaving or any other process such as embroidery, printing, painting, dyeing etc.
The popular combinations presently in production are as follows:
(a) Cotton x Cotton
(b) Cotton x Silk
(c) Tussar Silk x Tussar Silk
(A) The Cotton – Cotton variety has 90 – 96 ‘Khats’ across the fabric width of 46inch.
(B) Within the Cotton – Silk variety, there are three variations based on the number of ‘khats’ in the 46inch width of the fabric:
1. 300 – ‘khat’ variety: Having 285 – 300 ‘khats’ across the width
2. 350 – ‘khat’ variety: Having 325 – 350 ‘khats’ across the width
3. 400 – ‘khat’ variety: Having 385 – 400 ‘khats’ across the width
Each Khat in above varieties has 14 threads (i.e. 08 of cotton & 06 of silk yarns) both in transverse & longitudinal directions, hence number of ends & picks per inch can be ascertained.